On a recent weekend my wife and I visited Harper's
Ferry. The National Park Service does a
wonderful job of interpreting historic sites.
The visit was not our first, and I recalled that on a prior visit, I had
recorded some impressions of a newly awakened appreciation for the place and
its history. Having just located those
notes, I was surprised to see that they are over 14 years old. They are as follows:
Harpers
Ferry
July
5, 2001
I volunteer at the Hagley Museum, just north of
Wilmington, Delaware. Two or three
weekend days each month, I explain and demonstrate the operations of nineteenth
century machine tools. Prior to my
volunteering, I had only the vaguest notion of what a machine tool was. The experience has awakened a deep interest
in mid-nineteenth century manufacturing, the related tools and materials and in
how all of these had an effect on history, especially the American Civil
War. Barbara and Madeleine (wife and
child, respectively) are indulgent as I pour myself into books about arms
manufacture, gunpowder, millwrighting, iron and steel metallurgy, railroads,
clock making and Civil War battle tactics.
Barbara observes that I read books "with schematics, not
plots".
When Barbara and I decided to spend a couple of days in
Frederick, Maryland this summer, I insisted (nicely) that we visit Harpers
Ferry, which was the site of one of two federal armories established in the
early days of the United States, a place where startling technological
innovations had been made. And so we
went.
The visit was a disappointment. The effects of the war, periodic floods and
post-war rebuilding had swept most of the physical evidence of the industrial
past. The National Park Service, which
operates the site, has created an number of vest pocket displays in the
surviving buildings of the lower town that give a many faceted impression of
the history of the town, although focused heavily upon John Brown's raid in
1859. The display about the armory
consisted of a couple of machines in a small room with a video showing what the
machine looked like when they were operating.
We wandered away from the restoration and followed a trail that passed
among the ruined foundations of factories and millraces, some in the process of
being excavated but most barely noticeable in the woods.
The day was hot, we had been rained on, and we were tired
from having walked up and down the steep hillside that the town is set
against. I had given up hope of
squeezing any insight from the experience, when I saw a group of people
gathering in the shade of some trees nearby.
Barbara agreed to see what it was about, although the body language
said, "Both you and I know that I am being a Very Good Sport about this,
Buster."
A National Park Service Ranger, dressed in the uniform of
a Union soldier and holding a musket across his shoulder, was greeting a crowd
of about two dozen people who were seated on benches. Not long after we arrived he launched into
his presentation about Harpers Ferry during the Civil War. He spoke for a few minutes and then moved on
to another site in the lower town, where he stopped and spoke again. Each time he moved he had gathered into his
audience another dozen people.
It was spectacular.
In what follows I have tried to recreate the first quarter
of the Ranger's tour. As you read it,
try to imagine that you are there, that the Ranger is outdoors, raising his
voice to be heard by his growing audience and that, every so often, a slow
freight train rumbles by several dozen yards away. At points in his interpretation, the Ranger
pauses and looks around at his audience, nodding as if in agreement with the
statement he had just made.
The Ranger greeted the two dozen visitors who had shown up for the two
o'clock tour. When he had their
attention, he began.
"The beauty of this place is compelling, with large
green trees, the Shenandoah River behind me flowing into the Potomac River, and
the Loudon Heights and Maryland Heights towering above. In 1860 the picture is somewhat
different. Look anywhere around you and
imagine a building, you are probably right.
The availability of large amounts of water power made Harpers Ferry a
major industrial center. Factories lined
the banks of both rivers. Rivers,
railroads and canals running through Harpers Ferry made it a major crossroads
as well. The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad
ran 60 trains a day through here at all hours of the day and night. Between the factories – with their machinery,
trip hammers and forges – and the railroad – rumbling through and belching
steam – this was a busy, noisy, smelly, unpleasant place.
"The reason why all of this
was here, was this:
The Ranger raised the musket that he had been
holding across his shoulder, and he shook it slightly.
"The Federal Government made these in the armory that
stretched along the banks of the Potomac, just over there. The armory is the largest employer in town,
and the prosperity of the town depends upon the armory. An armory is a factory where weapons are
made. The arsenal buildings were just
over there, along the banks of the Shenandoah.
An arsenal is a warehouse where weapons are stored.
"In 1859, John Brown and his
followers staged a raid on Harpers Ferry in the hopes of sparking an uprising
among the slaves. They made Harpers
Ferry their target for the purpose of gathering weapons from the Federal
arsenal to arm their supporters. They
failed. Brown's men were killed or
captured, and Brown was executed after a highly publicized trial. The raid and the trial heightened the
tensions that already existing between the northern and southern states.
"In November of 1860,
Abraham Lincoln, the Republic party candidate, was elected President of the United
States. The Republican Party was a new
political party, united around its opposition to slavery. Lincoln didn't win the vote in any of the
southern states. The Democratic Party
splintered during the election, and three different Democratic Party candidates
ran for president. Almost immediately
after the election, the southern states started seceding from the Union. South Carolina was first to go, and others
followed.
"Come with me and find out
what happened next.
The Ranger, having reshouldered his musket, turned
to his right and walked off to an open lawn.
Flat stones, showing through the grass, outlined a large rectangle that
easily contained about a dozen low benches.
"Lincoln took office in
March of 1861. In 1861 Harpers Ferry was
a part of the state of Virginia. This
part of Virginia became the state of West Virginia and was admitted to the
Union in 1863. Virginia is a southern
state, and it calls a convention to consider whether to secede from the Union
like most of the other states have done.
On April 12 the Confederate forces on Charleston, South Carolina opened
fire on Fort Sumter, an island fortress in the harbor manned by a small Federal
garrison. On April 14 the Fort
surrendered.
"On April 18 Virginia voted
to secede from the Union. Loyalties in Harpers Ferry were divided – some people
felt loyalty to the state, but the livelihood of many people in the community
was tied to the Federal armory. The news that Virginia had left the Union
caused rioting here.
"After John Brown's raid,
the Federal government posted a contingent of 50 soldiers to protect the armory
and the arsenal. Immediately after
Virginia seceded, there were rumors that hundreds or even thousands of Virginia
militia men were on their way and would arrive the next day to seize the
arsenal, which contained 15,000 rifles and muskets ready for use. There was no way that the garrison of 50
could defend the armory against hundreds or thousands. Under cover darkness, the Federal soldiers
filled a mattress cover with gunpowder and dragged it into the main arsenal
building, which is where you are sitting, and the smaller arsenal, which is
just over there. The explosion set both
buildings on fire, destroying the buildings and all the weapons stored in them.
"The noise of the explosion
brought the towns people running, and regardless of their loyalties, they did
what they could to put out the fire and keep it from spreading. In the nineteenth century fire was a common
enemy. If a building wasn't made
entirely out of wood, it had a wooden roof.
Sparks from any blaze threatened everyone.
"They put out the fire. The arsenals and all the finished weapons
were destroyed, but the armory buildings along the Potomac River and all the
machinery in them remained intact. The
rumors turned out to be essentially true.
A contingent of about 350 Virginia militia arrived the next day and
seized the armory.
"Now, come with me, and
let's look at the strategic situation.
The Ranger turned again to his right and walked out
to a point of land about 50 feet above where two rivers joined together and
flowed as one off into the distance. He
turned to face his audience, who stood looking into the distance where the
river flowed. On the far side of both
rivers, rocky hills rose up over a thousand feet.
"Down there to your left is the Potomac River, and to
your right is the Shenandoah River, which flows into the Potomac.
"Upon leaving the Union,
Virginia becomes a part of the Confederate States of America. The Potomac River divides Virginia from
Maryland. Maryland remains in the Union
and is a part of the United States of America.
From the point of view of Virginia, the Potomac River has just become an
international boundary with a hostile neighbor, shots having already been
fired. Is this a good place for an
armory? No.
"Let's think about this
another way.
The Ranger pointed down into the Shenandoah River.
"Those boulders, where the Shenandoah flows into the
Potomac, mark the northern end of the Shenandoah Valley, which runs southwest
between two mountain ranges deep into Virginia.
An army moving through that Valley is essentially invisible to anyone
outside of the Valley. That is an
invasion route into the South.
The Ranger pointed behind him to where the Potomac
River disappeared into the folds of the landscape.
"You are looking east. Sixty miles in that direction as the crow flies
is the Federal capital. They called it
Washington City in those days. For the
armies of those times that distance is about three days' march. That is an invasion route to the northern
capital.
"In 1861, this has become an important place.
"The Virginia government brought in Thomas J.
Jackson, a professor of artillery at the Virginia Military Institute, and they
asked him how they could make Harpers Ferry secure from invasion. Jackson, the foremost authority on artillery
of the day, knew that artillery on the highest point of land controls the
surrounding country side. Harpers Ferry
is surrounded by heights on three sides.
Bolivar Heights rises above the town behind where you are standing. Loudon Heights rises up there …
he pointed up, across the Shenandoah …
"but the highest of the three …
he pointed up on the other side …
"is Maryland Heights, which rises across the Potomac.
"Bolivar Heights and Loudon Heights are in
Virginia. Maryland Heights is in
Maryland. Maryland is part of a foreign
country, and taking control of Maryland Heights means invading a foreign
country. In April of 1861 the
Confederacy was not ready to do that.
Jackson said, if I can't control Maryland Heights, I can't secure
Harpers Ferry. We will have to evacuate.
The Ranger led his audience back to the foundations of the arsenal
building.
"The machinery in the Federal armory for making
muskets and rifles was state of the art.
The Confederacy knew that it would be important to keep the machinery in
order to make rifles and muskets for the war they knew was coming, but they
lacked the means to move it to a place of safety.
"Although Virginia has seceded from the Union, the
situation remained fluid, and Baltimore and Ohio Railroad continued to send 60
trains a day across the river through Harpers Ferry, between Virginia and
Maryland, at all hours of the day and night.
Thomas J. Jackson, who was now in charge of the Confederate garrison at
Harpers Ferry, wrote a letter to Mr. John Garrett, the President of the Railroad,
and said, Mr. Garrett, your trains coming through Harpers Ferry at all hours of
the day and night are disturbing my troop and interrupting their sleep. In order to prevent these disturbances, I
will cut off passage through Harpers Ferry unless the trains are limited to a
two-hour period during the daytime.
"The Railroad agreed, and for a couple of weeks 60
trains ran through Harpers Ferry during a fixed two-hour period. Then Jackson sprung his trap. He held up the trains bound for Virginia into
Maryland while permitting the trains coming from Maryland to pass into
Virginia. The two-hour windows was so
brief that, before anyone knew what was happening, Jackson had bottled up 50
locomotives and over 300 cars. He loaded
the armory machinery onto these trains and shipped it south on another rail
line that ran into the town.
"With the armory gone, the reason for Harpers Ferry
to be a town was gone. In 1860 about
thirty-five hundred people lived in Harpers Ferry. Most left, according to their loyalties. Some armory workers and their families went
north to the other principal Federal armory located in Springfield,
Massachusetts. Others followed Jackson's
trains south to the armories in Richmond, Virginia and in Fayetteville, North
Carolina. Almost overnight, what had
been a thriving and productive community was devastated – an early casualty of
the war."
The Ranger turned and led his audience up one of the back streets of
the lower town.
By the time the Ranger was done, about an hour after he
started, he had collected an audience of about 75 people. Distant thunder that had started to rumble
about mid-way through his tour kept drawing closer, and rain started to
sprinkle as the Ranger collected his people onto the covered back porch of the
house from which Union General Phil Sheridan directed the 1865 campaign in the
Shenandoah Valley. The Ranger rested the
butt of his musket on the ground and talked about Harpers Ferry at the end of
the war while the rain fell more heavily with lightning and thunder.
When he was done, the Ranger reshouldered his musket,
turned and marched away, the sound of our applause melting into the sound of
the rain.